Yesterday we travelled from Moshi to the Ngorongoro Volcanic Crater to spend a couple of days in search of some big animals. We arrived at around 3pm and spent a couple of hours driving around on the top of the crater getting some amazing views of the 'eighth wonder of the world' and seeing a few buffalos. It really is staggeringly beautiful and, thanks to the recent rains, amazingly green. I have always wanted to visit the crater and it really did live up to all expectations.
We camped at the Simba site on top of the crater and were surprised when the guard told us to park about 50m away from everyone else under a tree, next to some tall grass that was just perfect for hiding a lion or two. At first we thought maybe one half of the campsite was full and we were simply the first to be sent to start a new camping area. However, no-one else came to join us, and instead we were left as bait for any hungry animal that decided to wander through the fenceless camp that night.
After a couple of stiff G&T's and just as it got dark, I noticed a distinctly animal-like noise around the camp. I shone the torch behind Monty and was confronted by around 20 sets of shining eyes looking back at me. A guard soon approached to inform us that it was a herd of buffalo and that we were camped in their grazing area, brilliant! Having heard lots of tales of buffalo being one of the most dangerous animals in Africa and even feared by the bravest of Maasai warriors, we decided it prudent to retreat to the safety of our canvas roof tent. We were awoken throughout the night as the herd grazed peacefully right next to Monty.
We were up at 5am the next day to ensure we could get down in to the crater in time for dawn. We picked up a guide at the park headquarters and started the descent down. There was only one way in down a single lane, steep, dirt track. It had rained slightly in the night, but fortunately it wasn't too slipery.
Within minutes of being in the crater we saw wildlife a plenty - elephants, rhino (black and white), lions, hippos, zebra (see flickr photos for full run-down). Probably Ric's favourite part of the day was when we stubbled upon a Toyota stuck in the mud and in need of some help - Monty to the rescue again! We managed to winch them out without too much trouble at all. We subsequently went on later in the day to help bump start another Land Rover and donate a fuel filter to a vehicle in need.
After a successful morning game drive we left the crater and headed further in to the park to visit Olduvai Gorge - the site of many a great archeological discovery by the late Mary and Louis Leakey. A personal mecca for me on this trip. We were able to stand over the gorge and also visit a little museum which contains a replica of the Laetoli footprints (the real ones have been reburied to preserve them). The footsteps were left by what is thought to be a direct ancestor of Homo sapiens, Australopithecine afarensis, as it walked over some volcanic ash near Olduvai. I still find it utterly staggering that some prints that were left 3.6 million years ago can be found and put on display (well a replica anyway) in a museum for me to see!
Back in Monty again and we sped as fast as we could on the bad roads to the exit gate of Ngorongoro (you only get 24 hrs in the park) and we were told that if we were late we'd have to pay for another day! We were late, but we didn't have to pay. As soon as you leave Ngoro, you enter the Serengeti. So with The Lion King soundtrack on full blast we trundled along to find our allocated campsite (which was 2 hrs away on a bumpy road). The Serengeti lived up to expectations and it wasn't long before we saw two lions lazing by the side of the road.
We reached the camping area whilst it was still light. Again there were no fences and signs warning of animals that would eat you given half the chance. More G&T's followed to calm the nerves before going to bed at 7.30. I dont think I have done that since I was a child.